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Sunday, 4 September 2011

Kakadu dreams...arrival in Barradise! Pt 1

Posted on 14:57 by Unknown
A couple of weeks ago I arrived in what can only be described as a true paradise. For fisherman, nature lovers and someone looking for peace and quiet the place I was in would be hard to beat. For me then, it couldn't get much better and immediately I fell in love with this pristine part of the Australian wilderness. First impressions and there seemed to be everything that might be expected; a crystal clear gold lined river teaming with fish, vast flocks of noisy colourful birds and a host of other interesting wildlife to help fill the long days. Adjacent to the river highly populated billabongs and swamps provided another rich habitat which also had to be explored. The question was would the food I had last long enough for me to enjoy the full experience of the place.





At this point I must give a big thanks to Graham who has kindly invited me to stay with him in Darwin. Graham recommended the spot I describe, and even gave me a lift out there in his pick up truck, stayed a night and then left me and the bike to fend for ourselves for the next two weeks. And what a two weeks it turned out to be. Hundred of fish climbed my line and when this wasn't happening I met with crocodiles, buffalo and wild pigs. Turtles dived when I quietly came along the river bank and the big mullet evaded me for the full duration. At night thousands of noisy flying foxes spread out from their bamboo roosts and gorged themselves on the flowers of huge Paper bark trees that line the river. So much happened in such a short time, so hope I can do it a little justice here with my photos and a few words. I feel truly blessed to have gone to this beautiful place, and know one day I will be back. And I suspect it won't have changed. The water will still be pure, the wallabies unconcerned by my presence and the fish as game as ever.











We arrived at our chosen camping spot and I tried very hard to control the instinct to drop everything, grab the rod and start casting the lure. After all there was a camp to arrange! When it came to the crunch there was no point in fighting the urge and within a few minutes hard fighting silver Barramundi and lively Saratoga were hitting my lures.






Immediately below where we camped, the shallow river gave way to a deeper hole on the far side, into which I flicked a small rubber crayfish. As it fell through the water column and before I started reeling- bang!- this Saratoga engulfed it, flew out of the water and put a huge smile on my face! I was really hoping to get one, so it was a pretty good start, and little did I know how many more I would catch in the coming days!




It wasn't long before Graham and I headed up stream to explore some of the river. Shallows run a long way before the deeps but sometimes a pool can be found that might be full of fish. Clear sweet water and golden river sand make it easy to see the fishy inhabitants but somehow I missed this 7-8 foot crocodile that was lying in a mere 15 inches of water directly under my feet! Sneaky ba*$?*d..Too engrossed in the fishing it was a valuable lesson that a crocodile might be in the last place one expects to see it. And it also reminds you how unbelievably sneaky they are..did I mention that? In deeper murkier water there would be ZERO chance to spot one even if it lay inches away. Being a salt water model he could quite easily have chosen to bite my foot off, but luckily was obviously in a pretty good mood and rather chose to move off upstream towards his deeper water.




A pretty poor photo but you can get the idea of where the crocodile was trying to hide. We must have surprised him so there was no other option for him but to try and remain invisible..





Every spot with slightly deeper water produced fish. Lying under this bamboo snag was a shoal of small Barra that took much delight in eating the rubber shad that landed on their plates. Hard fighting little fish that usually put on a jumping show to try and rid the hooks. After a few, we moved on up the river to see what lay around the next corner. Always too tempting to move!






Another immaculate Barra that took a liking to the small white shad! A classic Barra lure that shouldn't be left at home!






As the sun started dropping, Sooty Grunter started to put in an appearance. Unbelievable fighters that try hard until the end. Every specimen regardless of the size puts on the underwater cartwheels leading the angler to believe he has a much larger fish on the line. NICE!! A steady stream of big Grunters went for the lures!








The OX eyed Tarpon also regularly put in an appearance much to my delight. Super fast multiple strikes indicated by flashing silver behind the lure would announce their arrival but then it was pretty much luck if one would actually hook itself. Super energetic fighters, jumping multiple times and usually gaining their freedom after a split second!






Graham with a better Barramundi lured with a soft plastic.






I was starting to wonder about archer fish when this absolute cracker nailed my Heddon Baby Torpedo. I had seen small fish swimming in the margins but never any bigger specimens. I put a cast to some submerged bamboo in a deep section of the river and the lure got whacked almost immediately! For their size also true fighters!








Head shot of Archer fish. With deadly accuracy this fish can shoot insects down from trees with a high powered jet of water!










As the sun dropped below the horizon on the first day we came across a Barra nest. Good fish hit the lures on every cast. Pulling a spinner bait on the surface I had five big surface strikes in five casts. The single hook was obviously finding it hard to get purchase but on the sixth cast this 'fish of the day' 'boofed' the lure and got well and truly hooked. By this time I had asked Graham to film the moment - so soon maybe I will get the clips on youtube! After this experience surface lures were the go, starting with the Heddon Baby Topedo who took a real hammering over the next few days!






Not far downstream from the first camp, where the thick bamboo started and the shallow water gave way to the deeps, the fruit bats roosted. Thousands upon thousands dangling upside down from the bamboo stalks, gently fanning themselves through the midday heat. The smell would hit you from some distance and as you got closer the bats would wake, and maybe if they could be bothered, noisily flap to the far bank before settling down once again.




Plenty of snakes chose to live by the river, feasting on the abundance of frogs that emerge at night. I mainly saw tree snakes but more often than not it was their old skins, left on a conveniently rough tree. Up in the dry savannah the death adders lived, but as usual I could only find their tracks and plenty of those. But never the snake!







Behind my camp up on the flood plain a huge swamp dotted with Paper bark trees covered a big area. Egrets, herons, whistling ducks, Magpie geese and Jabiru all spend the days here picking off small fish, frogs and the juicy vegetation. Unfortunately to get good photos of any of these birds was very hard without a long lens or a hide out on the swamp. This was quite possibly where the million mosquitoes that visited me every night originated from!






A very decent Grunter who took a liking to the white shad




On the second evening I returned to the Barra hot spot armed with surface lures and had some incredible fishing. Ten good Barra like this, one after the other, each hitting the lure like it was possibly the last frog in the world! Boofing marvellous.



My trusted Heddon Baby Torpedo after a hard evening of getting whacked by good Barra. Battered and bruised he needed a good service before the next trip! I became pretty attached to this little beauty as everything in the river seemed to fancy eating him! Retirement was close for him and a few days after this photo was taken, when most of the paint had been removed by the fish, I took that decision but too late unfortunately. One morning I stumbled out of my tent at that magic time of day, grabbed the rod and walked 50 yards upstream to two submerged trees. A very fishy spot and I remember thinking that if the torpedo was going to go here would be the place. Plop, plop plop....smash and big hefty Barra powered off under the tree. A couple of confusing seconds and it was all over; the lure of the trip had been taken, much to my disgust. I returned and sulked in my tent for a while and only really got over the incident a day later!! RIP little lure!





Food stock for two weeks! With the luxury of arriving by vehicle I could bring plenty of food. Problem was I couldn't move on the bike until I had eaten a good chunk of the excess weight, which took 4 days!






Walking to spend the night 10km upstream. Just with the bare essentials. Two tins of baked beans, a fruit cake, fishing equipment, sleeping bag, camera and inner tent to keep mozzies at bay. Oh and a Snickers!




A fine Sooty Grunter that couldn't resist the upgraded Torpedo!





Huge flocks of whistling duck over a billabong near the camp.




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Saturday, 13 August 2011

Up into Litchfield national park

Posted on 18:50 by Unknown
The last three posts cover the preceding month's cycling across northern Australia on the way to Darwin. Because of some bad roads, I decided that it would be best to send the laptop and some other unneeded gear ahead with Simon who is travelling in his car. Thanks very much mate for taking the time to drop the bags off in Darwin and thanks to Nadine (apparently the best vet in Darwin) for receiving them! Because I want to leave the city fairly soon, to save time I will just caption the pictures for now and write some more later on. It's certainly been a very interesting stretch of the trip thanks to changing landscapes, interesting people and big crocodiles that seem to like eating fishermen. Hope everyone enjoys the north of Australia as much as I have.









For months and months I've been trying to get a decent picture of a rainbow Bee Eater (Merops ornatus) and finally, after only coming across restless pairs, one decided to sit quietly and have his photo taken. This was shortly after I arrived in Darwin on one of beaches that surround the city. A network of bike paths cross the city and also skirt the coast, which is very convenient if you want to go fishing on your bike!




Mikael Lavorel whom I met on the road to Katherine. Something of a legend, Mikael has clocked up 40 000 km pedalling from France to Australia. We sat together, made coffee and shared stories of cycling in far away places like Tajikistan. It was a welcome relief from a bit of a dull day and I left our meeting feeling very content. Unfortunately for Mikael he had a headwind to ride against, but still seemed happy because he could relax after months of heavy attention from the people in Asia. I had become used to the open roads and relaxing cycling, but still it was a novelty to Mikael!




See Mikael's web page at mikael.lavorel.free.fr










Cycling through Litchfield national park just south of Darwin I was lucky enough to see this setting sun. Smoke from bush fires in the area intensified the sun's colour, which became a deep red as it dropped closer to the horizon. The photo doesn't do it justice, unfortunately. It was a beautiful evening to be out on the road and lots of wallabies bounded for cover as I passed through the savannah country. Screeching parrots and galahs wheeled and screamed overhead breaking the silence as they headed for their roosts. The peacefulness was slightly marred by a vast battalion of mosquitoes that arrived after sunset. Before I realised how bad they would be, the idea came to climb a low hill where, maybe, things would be a little quieter. A very very steep 'service' track ran up the hill which I followed for 25 minutes. Having only made 200 metres, and soaked with sweat from head to toe, I decided to stop and sleep on a vaguely flat bit of hillside. After 30 seconds the mosquitoes arrived and, once again, I think I broke the record for putting up my tent before launching myself inside. Only once before had I seen so many mozzies - and was back in Georgia. After killing the 50 or so in the tent I decided cooking was a bad idea so stayed zipped up and ate some peanuts. At three in the morning it started raining which meant I had to venture out to put the fly sheet on the tent. Another million mozzies in the tent and, of cours,e it stopped raining after 17 drops had fallen. Ten minutes later, with all the little whining blood suckers killed, I tried to get back to sleep, but proved tricky thanks to tussocks of grass under my mattress! It really wasn't a very good night and after that I decided not to climb any more hills!




Another evening, whilst looking for a decent camp spot, I came across a lovely little creek that demanded to be camped by - a little oasis in the dry savannah. I pushed the bike a little way off the road and set up the tent under a big tree close enough to the burbling water to be serenaded to sleep. As the last rays of sunlight left the sky a bunch of dingos began to howl their mournful cry in the distance. I had got pretty used to dingos howling but never had they come to bother me in the night and this night was the same. After cooking, while washing the pot by the stream, I noticed many little orange eyes milling around in the water. turned out to belong to a tribe of yabbies - small, freshwater crayfish that I had heard about, but had never caught. These definitely needed a closer look, but because I had no bait I had to chase some high speed, long-jumping frogs until I managed to sacrifice one for the cause. As soon as the bait hit the bottom of the creek a crayfish approached and took hold with its claws. Extracting it from the creek proved a bit tricky because, when they neared the bank, defence mechanisms would make sure their claws opened. Eventually I figured they could be pinned down to the creek bed with the end of the rod and I could catch them behind the head. After an hour or so of cray fishing the excitement began to wear off and I called it a night, or at least, I thought I did. A scratching noise prevented me from dropping off to sleep so, eventually, I figured something was in my panniers stealing food. Reluctantly I got up and made a search but found nothing. Same again ... scratch scratch scratch ... but this time, after a proper search, I found the culprit! Mr mouse was in there having a lovely time and, luckily for him, I was half asleep and not in the mood to use him as bait. In the early morning when I climbed out of the tent, a dingo passed heading to a quiet place to sleep up. Surprisingly it hadn't bothered me in the night.



In most of Australia unplanned bush fires can be a big problem so these signs help people assess the fire risk. I'd be tempted to always leave the arrow on catastrophic if I was the ranger!


Litchfield national park, NT. And what they call a Cathedral termite mound. In the right areas the bush is littered with with these piles of mud! pretty impressive stuff considering the size of the inhabitants. This one measured over 5 metres and was one of the tallest I have come across.




As I have travelled further north and the climate has warmed billabongs have become more common. As the monsoonal waters retreat shallow areas may hold water, or possible a spring will keep the ground wet enough for lillies and other water plants to grow. Like an oasis in the bush they attract vast amounts of birds, water monitors and crocodiles. I had to wade out to take this photo, so had a beady eye open for any lurking crocs, which as it happened weren't home.


Tomer Falls in Litchfield national park is a beautiful spot where hundreds of rare bats tend to hang out thanks to the constant temperature in the caves.
I kept seeing crocodile warning signs (see below) by small jungle clad creeks that the road passed over. It was hard not to investigate the prospect of a huge croc in such a small stream, but after quite a few kilometres only one water monitor was my reward. Plenty of dancing butterflies, wallabies and noisy birds kept me company but no big scaly reptiles were about unfortunately. It was pretty hot and sweaty so here I was having a bit of a cool off.


Savannah flowers and palms In litchfield around a year after a fire came through


One evening I found this lovely creek to camp beside and the thought of cooling off after a long day on the bike was too much. After a crocodile survey of the area I decided this pool was the one to lie in and enjoy my evening cup of tea!


Plenty of signs like this up here but still some people don't seem all that convinced that there are crocodiles in some water ways!


This is the first decent Sooty Grunter I caught and what a battler! In the clear water of the Finniss River I saw him come up and nail the lure close to the bank and for the next few seconds all I could do was hold on as the fish made powerful dashes for submerged timber. Somehow It didn't get to refuge so unfortunately for it ended up as breakfast!


These grave yard like scene is a collection of magnetic termite mounds, aligned for temperature regulation and only found in spots that become water logged in the wet season. Quite an incredible place which I've been waiting to see for a long time.


Magnetic Termite mounds, NT


Wangi Falls in Litchfield National Park. Overrun with tourists but pretty all the same. Met one guy that was convinced that the falls had opened in the last week because the water level had dropped sufficiently enough for safe swimming. He wouldn't believe that a few weeks ago there was probably a dirty great crocodile in there that needed trapping. Clear of crocs now there is nothing whatsoever to stop one entering at night time so never be the first guy to swim in the morning!


Golden swimming hole in the NT




As I passed the Finniss river just outside the Northern boundary of Litchfield national park I met Dion and Mitch. Brothers, Bush experts, fishermen, travellers, crocodile handlers and throughly good guys I ended up staying with them for the next four nights. A generator powered a light, fridge and laptop which were all a novelty for me but having done 12 laps of Australia living bush it means the guys can work on making their films and have a cold beer occasionally. Fountains of knowledge: - the days were spent telling stories, filming wildlife, fishing and exploring our surrounds. We noticed some tourists fishing above our camp who seemed very unconcerned about the crocodiles that may be inhabiting the river. They obviously hadn't seen the three metre specimen that spent its days sunbathing a hundred yards from their fishing spot. Mitch politely warned them of the danger and it wasn't long before they decided that standing 6 inches from the water's edge advertising yourself as a crocodile's lunch was not the best way to spend a Sunday afternoon!
I headed out on the first morning for a fish and soon had a lively little Barra tuck into my lure. Small and feisty he cartwheeled and flipped his way to freedom in a matter of seconds. Intimate fishing to say the least..creep through the bank side vegetation until a suitable snag presents itself where surely a fish must be lying up. A short underarm flick to get the lure out into the crystal water before a steady retrieve, which will quickly have any residents after the tasty little plastic fish. It wasn't long until the first decent Sooty Grunter whacked into the minnow lure and did its best to retreat back to its snag ridden home. Bully boy tactics were called for to stop the olive green beauty from hanging me up in the structure. Checking for crocodiles I soon had my prize hoisted up for a mug shot. As it was still early in the day it meant breakfast would be simple. Roast fish on the coals before another sortie down the river.
Dion with a little Javelin fish that couldn't resist trying a lure!


The business end of a Sooty grunter. At the moment undoubtedly my favourite fish thanks to its mangrove jack like fighting ability and good looks. Fail to stop him getting into the snags in the first second and you might as well say goodbye to your lure and fish!
The Finniss River next to our camp. Shallows and pools giving way to deeper water which is thickly cloaked with bamboo and Pandanus. Any one that thinks fishing is a lazy man's sport should fish here! Often to move from one spot to the next means dropping onto ones stomach and sliding through the tangle of bamboo. It's not everybody's cup of tea but so worth it to reach that beautiful fishy looking snag.


I was still half asleep while flicking my lure until this Grunter gave me a good wake up call when it slammed into my white x-rap!
Good bush tucker from the river. Cherabin (freshwater prawn) and Yabby (crayfish)
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Friday, 12 August 2011

Kununurra and around with Graz fraz!

Posted on 19:48 by Unknown


































































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